Juneau to Sitka

We spent 3 nights in Juneau and tried to make it as productive as possible. We did cross paths and caught up on our travels with fellow Queen City Yacht Club members, Wanda and Rico on Wanderer and Lynn and Dave on Willawaw. They arrived in Auke Bay from the south having stayed in Taku Harbor the night before, while we came from the north.

In past years, we have rented a car for a day to run our errands but have now decided that we can get by with riding our bikes, taking the bus or using a Lyft/Uber. The Lyft/Uber drivers are very accustomed to taking people from the Juneau Costco to the harbor at Auke Bay.

During the summer, the Statter Harbor at Auke Bay is very busy with locals coming and going, whale watching tour boats, commercial fishing boats and transient recreational boats such as we are. Another very noticeable presence are the mega yachts. It is common to see 2 or 3 tied to the breakwater dock at Statter Harbor with another anchored out in the deeper section of the bay. Most mega yachts abound with glamour and luxury in their appearance.

On this visit there was a yacht that stood out for its purposeful look. The vessel,180’ Power Play, is in the category of a “support vessel”. Its purpose is to carry the necessary accessories to a larger mega yacht, such as a large (e.g., 50’) tender, jet-skis, or helipad that might interfere with the appearance of the owners primary mega yacht. A little searching on the internet revealed that Power Play was built for Jan Koum, a co-founder of the company WhatsApp (later purchased by Facebook for a reported $19 billion). Sadly, the vessel supported by Power Play, the 241’ Mogambo was not present (its AIS position was in the San Franciso Bay area) at the time.

We departed Juneau on Wednesday, June 19 and headed back towards Chatham Channel. We anchored again in Cedar Cove in Freshwater Bay near the more popular Pavlof Harbor. We dropped our three prawn pots in Freshwater Bay as we went in. This time we were alone in the anchorage.

The weather deteriorated overnight and, while the anchorage was calm and protected, as soon as we poked our nose into Freshwater Bay, we had 2-3’ foot seas. It was a challenge to retrieve our gear, but Marcia’s sharp vision spotted all three pots bobbing up and down in the waves. All our efforts were wasted as we had zero prawns. We won’t be trying there again anytime soon.

We had arranged to meet up with our friends John & Kathleen on Laysan in Takatz Bay. They were coming north up Chatham Channel from Gut Bay and had the wind and seas on their stern making for a relatively comfortable ride. We slogged south down Chatham Channel in 15-20 knot winds and 3’ head seas. We breathed a great sigh of relief when we arrived at the protected entrance channel to Takatz Bay.

We joined John & Kathleen for a paddle in our kayaks to the head of the bay at high tide (at low tide it is a large mud flat). There was a brown bear feeding on sedge grass at the shore’s edge who was not bothered by folks watching him from a respectful distance.

That evening we were invited with John & Kathleen to dinner on the vessel You Dear, belonging to Peter & Gail who are John & Kathleen’s “neighbors” in Petersburg. Peter & Gail were buddy boating with their friends Doug & Karen owners of Peregrine. The meal was seafood recently caught by Peter, Gail, Doug & Karen.

After our second night in Takatz Bay, Alpenglow and Laysan both departed. The wind and seas had calmed down considerably from the day we had arrived. When we departed, John & Kathleen continued north up Chatham Channel with the goal of Hoonah where a haul out was scheduled two days later. We continued south towards Gut Bay.

During our two nights in Gut Bay, we dropped prawn pots which yielded satisfactory results. The salmon fishing, however, was not successful. We decided to return to Sitka for another visit.

Along the way we stopped in Hanus Bay and took our kayaks to shore to access the USFS trail to Lake Eva. The hike was fine, but our timing was poor because we landed on a following tide and had to drag our kayaks a long way across a muddy shoreline and even further after our hike. Not wanting a muddy dog, we carried Drake across the muddy parts of the beach.

After one last night at anchor in the outer cover to DeGroff Bay, we returned to Sitka the morning of Wednesday, June 26.

Sitka to Juneau via Glacier Bay

While we may blame Drake for our spending more time tied to the docks in towns, truth be told, we enjoy the time as well. We spend a lot of time during the day walking as we leisurely work through the few tasks that make it on to our project list.

After six nights in town, on Friday June 7, we headed north out of town along Olga and Neva Passages, retracing our earlier path into to Sitka. Our plan was to apply for a short notice (72 hour) permit for entry into Glacier Bay National Park then head into Juneau afterwards. For our first night, we headed into Appleton Cove on the north shore of Baranof Island. If the wind is blowing along Peril Strait, you don’t get much protection from it at anchor. It was blowing and we didn’t, but winds lessened as the sun dropped lower on the horizon. We did see two brown bears (widely separated) feeding on the ample sedge grass along the shore.

The next day, June 8, we exited Peril Strait and headed north along Chatham Strait. We had applied for our Glacier Bay permit for entry on June 11 earlier in the morning and received notice later that morning that it was successful (it is “first-come, first served”). So, we now had more structure to our plan. For that night we went into Cedar Cove in Freshwater Bay. This was a “new to us” anchorage and we used data provided by Lynn & Neal Parker on the Krogen 48, Navigator to enter this poorly charted area.

The next morning, we made an additional successful application to the National Park Service for entry into Glacier Bay for that day for the purpose of anchoring in Bartlett Cove and attending the mandatory annual boater orientation program. While an entry permit is needed to get to Bartlett Cove, you don’t need a permit to remain in Bartlett Cove. Pets are allowed on shore in certain areas, and we’ve found a suitable area for Drake to play while on a long lead leash.

While Bartlett Cove can be pleasant to spend some time, if the wind has a strong westerly component, it can come pretty much straight in, especially at higher tides, and be bouncy. With a weather forecast for west wind, on June 10, we made one more permit application to the NPS and received a one-day permit for entry into the park that day. That permit, combined with our original permit, allowed us to begin our trip to the upper bay a day earlier. We headed to North Sandy Cove, one of our favorite Glacier Bay anchorages.

The next day, we headed up the west arm and anchored in Reid Inlet. This is a dramatic anchorage with a glacial snout over hanging the beach at the inlet’s head. It feels like you are anchored in a high mountain lake. Unfortunately, the anchorage can be very cold and windy from the winds racing down Reid Glacier. We plunked our anchor down and quickly were blown back on to it, setting it firmly.

An early start the next morning got us to the head of Tarr Inlet and the face of the Margerie Glacier before the first cruise ship of the day. We ended the day anchored on the east shore of Russell Island, another stunning anchorage and without the brisk winds of the previous day. On paddle to a nearby island, I was “encouraged” to leave by a local oyster catcher who apparently had a nest nearby and didn’t want my size10 XtraTuff boots anywhere near it.

After Russell Island, based on the recommendations from another vessel (the small cruise boat Sea Wolf), we anchored in Sebree Cove. It is a fair-weather anchorage looking south across a vast expanse of Glacier Bay. The weather was perfectly acceptable but we didn’t see the extensive wildlife that Sea Wolf had the night before.

After one last night in Glacier Bay at Shag Cove, we made our way to Funter Bay on Admiralty Island. A very early start had us at the busy Statter Harbor Marina (Auke Bay) northwest of downtown Juneau shortly after 8 am, Sunday, June 16.

Petersburg to Sitka

Following our ten-day stay in Petersburg, on Memorial Day, May 27, we headed south with John & Kathleen on Laysan to anchor in Ideal Cove, about 15 miles south of Petersburg.

About ½ mile north of Ideal Cove is beach access to a trail that passes some lakes and eventually reaches one of the roads on Mitkof Island. Laysan launched their dinghy and graciously took Marcia, Drake and I over to the trailhead. By this time is was the afternoon and we only walked about a mile along the trail before turning around and returning to the anchorage.

The next day we parted ways with the Douglas’s who were still in shakedown mode and were planning to stay a few more days before moving on. We headed up to Pybus Bay where we dropped three prawn pots in our usual spot. Starting last year, the Alaska Department of Fish and Game had moved the commercial prawning season from October to May. While the commercial prawning season in the district encompassing Pybus Bay had closed we weren’t sure whether our pots would be able to harvest any prawns leftover from the commercial prawners. We anchored for the night in one of our favorite spots west of the West Brother Island.

The next morning, the weather had deteriorated a bit, and the anchorage was a little bouncy. We headed over to Pybus Bay to retrieve our pots. The wind and sea conditions made it a little challenging and while we did a respectable haul of prawns, we elected to not reset the pots but instead headed further west in Fredrick Sound to the Honey Dew anchorage. This is another favorite anchorage of ours as it has a lovely beach to which we paddle kayaks to shore and play ball with Drake.

The weather continued to be unsettled so we decided to repeat the route from 2023 in which we headed to Warm Springs Bay. In the early season, the dock there isn’t as crowded and finding space is easier. There is a small community of vacation homes along boardwalks leading up from the dock and three tubs fed by a piping from the hot springs up the hill from the dock.

We got our soak in the tubs after we arrived, but soon heavy rainfall and its runoff overwhelmed the flow of from the hot springs and the tubs became tepid and discolored by the tannin from the ground water. We decided to cut our losses. After two nights, we did an early start, rode favorable wind and current and made the 83-mile journey to Sitka, arriving the afternoon of June 1.